POSTED BY: Zach Fitzgerald
When it comes to men’s suits, the most important thing is the fit. While many companies focus on customizations and unique styling details like louder linings, coloured stitching and different coloured buttons, if you don't start with the fit, those other details of the clothing are irrelevant.
A suit will only look its best when it makes the the man wearing it look good.
So, how do we do it? A great fit is achieved by flattering the shape of the body. The main goal is simply to create a leaner silhouette with sharper lines, and a broader shoulder line.
The key is the "V".
The shape to think about when thinking about the fit of a suit is a V. This is due to the focus on the upper half of the body. The reason for this is to create the appearance of better posture in the wearer, and to make him look taller.
While many fashion labels and off the rack suiting companies try their best to create garments that will work well with the masses, many men are rediscovering the advantages of custom clothing and the hassle free process of purchasing a garment, knowing that it will fit great.
Is there such a think as the so-called 'Perfect Fit'?
There are many different custom clothing companies that work towards creating this flattering fit. However, a word we hear all too often in the industry is the term 'perfect fit'. The problem with this term is that there is no such thing as a perfect fit.
It's important to realize that a perfect fit using skin measurements may not look great at all on the wearer. This is because clothing is a visual game. No body type is perfect. Everyone’s body has at least one form of an imperfection.
For example, one of the most common imperfections in men's posture is a lower shoulder. This is due to one hand being dominant and used more often to lift heavy items (like a gym bag or a suitcase). The effect this has on a suit jacket is that the lower shoulder causes one side of the jacket to be slightly off balance.
Take a look at this example in the image on the left. Visually, the lower shoulder can be noticed by looking at the button of the jacket in proportion to the buttonhole. If the two don’t line up properly, it means that the jacket’s lapel will start to pucker on one side. While this fit issue cannot be corrected on an off the rack garment, it can certainly be corrected with a custom garment.
How does a custom suit fit differently?
There are many more ways that a custom jacket can be made to fit you better than an off the rack garment in the most subtle ways. While attention to detail may not be the first thing you think about when looking at someone wearing a suit, you will certainly notice the difference in a custom suit.
The simplest tell is the lack of overall wrinkling in both the trouser and jacket of the suit. The suit will simply drape on the wearer’s body with a clean, lean silhouette. Not too loose, not too tight. If this is achieved, you will clearly see the difference.
The King & Bay Master Suit fits your body every time.
At King & Bay, we have pioneered a unique measurement tool through our custom process which we call The Master Suit. It is an one-off test suit made out of a lightweight material used to visually see these imperfections using your measurements, helping us to land on the best possible fit.
While many clothiers use a 2 step fitting process (initial measurements, delivery final touches) we use a 3 step fitting process (initial measurements, trial fitting, delivery final touches). This middle step that we have pioneered will help the wearer visually see and feel all the corrections needed and will have a say in the aesthetic details of the garment (such as lapel width).
We believe that everyone should try crafting a custom garment and we will guarantee that it will be very difficult to return to purchasing ready to wear garments. While the process takes some time, we are strong believers that the best things in life require patience.